Imagine my surprise when I learned Gusto Grilled Organics, the first green- and organic-certified restaurant, had opened its doors nearly two weeks ago in New York. I was shocked because I hadn’t heard one peep about it from my extensive list of blogs and email newsletters that cover foodie destinations, green innovation, city culture, and trendwatching. In fact, I only found out about the new eco-friendly organic eatery because a Google Alert brought this to my attention.
After surprise, came curiosity. I had to check Gusto out. Unfortunately, satisfying my curiosity only led to unsatisfying disappointment.
I was definitely excited about a restaurant boasting 100 percent organic cuisine, environmentally friendly packaging, green certified cleaning products and processes, and a sustainable space using recycled barn-wood furniture and efficient LED lighting. My enthusiasm remained high as I walked through the door and encountered a waste container with separate compartments for food composting and paper/plastic/glass recycling. I became more elated as I perused the menu made with 100% recycled paper and soy ink. I also devoured the companion piece detailing the reasons to consume “organics” and listing the green virtues of the restaurant. Things were looking good.
It was downhill from there. It must have been an awkward time of day; no server clarified whether we should expect counter or table service and patrons appeared to be enjoying both within the same dining area. The owner chastised me for taking photos (which startled me since my friends take food porn shots all the time) and refused to engage in friendly conversation about the restaurant. And though my intentions did not include reviewing the food, I found the oregano-heavy Fugazzetta & Champignons pizza tasty and the Capresse empanada far less inspiring. While I was happy to see yerba mate on the menu and bottles in the takeout fridge, the Mate Latte should have been called “Mate and Latte” since the tea arrived separately from the foamed milk.
Granted, I was so ecstatic about the eco-eatery’s concept, I was completely willing to forgive and forget my negative impressions of the two most important parts of a restaurant experience: food and service. After all, I expect a new restaurant to have some kinks. What I didn’t expect was to find a $4.99 bottle of Windex sitting beneath the restroom’s trough sink. For a restaurant that claims its “cleaning products and processes are green certified and biorenewable,” it makes me question what other Windex-like dirt is being swept under a questionably organic rug.
My criticisms aside, I do appreciate Gusto’s efforts and look forward to emulators of the concept with more, well, gusto.
